Monthly Archives: April 2012

Adventures in Schlossplatz

Schlossplatz is the center of the city, where all the subway lines merge. The Times Square of Stuttgart. And when it rains, and everyone crowds into the small overhangs of the store fronts, it feels like Times Square.

When we first arrived, we grabbed a pretzel. This was meant to be a challenge, since the word pretzel is “brezel”, and is pronounced “buweh-tzel”. And if you want butter on that, “boo-teh-buweh-tzel”. Luckily, I didn’t see any butter anywhere. I jumped right in.

“Brezel, bitte.”

“Eins?” she asked, holding up her thumb.

“Ja”.

She gave me a pretzel. “Danke schoen!”

“Tschüss!”

And then we ate the pretzel. It was pretty good, but that sparked a discussion. There really wasn’t anything specific that we could identify about the pretzel. It was fairly normal. It didn’t even have butter on it, like the Auntie Anne’s you buy in Penn Station, or your local mall. It just had the proper amount of salt on it, had some crunch on the shell, and a moist center. Success!

The train brought us somewhere near the Schloßplatz, or Palace Square. I didn’t recognize it. Why would I?

Schlossplatz Palace Square

Schlossplatz Palace Square

We walked on. This is a pretty typical area.

Stores Around Schlossplatz

Stores Around Schlossplatz

We walked on. Eventually, we got hungry. But instead of eating, we kept going.

Yarn Store

Yarn Store for my mom, who loves yarn stores

After near starvation, we stuffed some currywurst in our faces.

Currywurst

Currywurst

The only real redeeming feature of currywurst is the wurst itself. Delicious stuff. The actual curry used here wasn’t particularly amazing. Good enough for starving children, however. And the fries were good.

And then we walked right into this:

Schlossplatz Ball Fountain

Schlossplatz Ball Fountain

And something triggered in my head. I’ve seen this before! I was here for Cannstatter Volksfest (an Oktoberfest for Stuttgart) four years ago. I went with my brother and his friend John, and we threw an American football around in the square in front of the palace! That was a night that deserves a story all on it’s own. It was neat to see again.

In an effort to eat every popular German food in less than a week, we also got a doner kabab. This went significantly less smoothly than ordering the pretzel.

“Hallo. Eins, bitte,” I said, ordering Menu Item Number One. I forgot to add the word “nummer” to that sentence, but it worked out.

“Blarg blarg blarg” the cashier said. The only thing I caught was something that might have been roll, and since the kebabs were sold either on a roll or a wrap. I wanted a wrap, but the previous person ordered on a roll. So, assuming the cashier was asking which one I wanted, I pointed to the roll.

“Was ist das?” I said. Even though I am clearly a native German speaker, I had no idea what a “roll” was.

“Blarg.” said the cashier. He seemed to understand my situation, and pointed to the wrap. “Oder blarg.”

I pointed to the wrap. “Dies”.

He said some other things, but the only word I caught was “trink”, which means “drink”. Ha ha! I know what he’s asking!

“Nein, danke!”

That was not a proper response, because he paused, looked at me strangely, “blarg”ed a few times, and the order was complete. I handed him too much money, he made change, and I took my food to Alissa, who was waiting outside.

Doner Kebab

Doner Kebab

Neither of us was hungry enough to eat the whole thing.

On the way home, we picked up some absoutly disgusting looking meat product. I want to test the limits. It’s probably going to be delicious.

 

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Holsten Pilsener

Holsten Pilsener

Holsten Pilsener

After the weissbier, this was delicious. Pilsners are delicious. I’m not sure what to compare this to, but it’s maybe not quite as good as the darker beers.

I think I’m going to need more beer under my belt before I can judge.

 

Maisel’s Weisse Original

I do not like Weissbeir (literally: wheat beer, or hefeweizen), as a general rule. Good with fruit, but that’s about it. So imagine my surprise when Maisel’s Weisse was just ‘okay’!

I should probably point out that the beers I posted today were not all consumed today. So. Don’t judge.

 

Paulaner Salvator

Paulaner Salvator

Paulaner Salvator

I bet I’ll look back on these early beer posts, and giggle at my inability to distinguish one from another. But come on! This beer tasted German. It’s a German doppelbock. Which means nothing.

Some friends in New York told us that Germans tend to find a local beer they like, and then just order it all the time. No reason to get something else if you like the one you’re drinking. Which is probably what I’ll end up doing if all the beer tastes the same.

Also, I’ve given up trying to take good photos. I would steal images from online, but that’s lame. I’d go downstairs and take the photos in the sunlight, but that has two problems:

  1. The neighbors will probably judge me.
  2. My camera has a broken display on the back, so I can’t see what I’m taking a picture of.

But the crappy photos are homey and comforting, right? Also, they’re proof that I’m not just making this up.

 

New York City Friendliness

We were told the Germans were unfriendly. “It’s going to be hard to make friends!” they said. The people on the street don’t like to make eye contact, and they don’t wave or smile or say “Guten tag Herr Beck!” But we’re from New York City. I would not survive here if I had to smile at everyone, and offer up meaningless pleasantries.

When it comes down to it, the people here are very nice. Just like New York City. They’ll leave you alone until you stare helplessly at the sign posted at the bank. “Simon du fruilein Ich nueul baudsinger zof dailen” they’ll say, and when you respond, politely, with a blank stare, they will continue. “Deorth un farunatriger de suma tu defura sin die alles POROOF ameranger”.

Which is probably very nice.

“Danke!”

Everyone parts on happy terms.

Apparently, the bank was closed. That’s really all I need to know anyway. An American bank wouldn’t have attempted to post a sign in the first place.

 

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Rothaus Pils Tannen Zäpfle

Rothaus Pils Tannen Zäpfle

Rothaus Pils Tannen Zäpfle

Okay, this beer was pretty delicious. Somehow, it just hit the spot. Lots of hops.

The interesting thing about this beer is that it’s brewed in Baden-Württemberg, about 170 miles south of Stuttgart, in the Black Forest. Tannenzäpfle means “little fir cones,” which I suppose have something to do with the trees around the brewery. You might think “hey! I bet they use pine cones to brew this beer!” but you’d be wrong. The Germans don’t put pine cones in beer.

 

Degerloch View

Here’s a view from the bedroom of our temporary apartment in Degerloch. We’re south-east of the central Stuttgart city, up on a hill.

Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel

Erdinger Weissbier Dunkel

First beer! The Erdinger Dunkel

First beer! I grabbed this in the grocery store near our place. It cost somewhere around 70 cents, and was pretty delicious.

My impression of German beer is that of simplicity. There isn’t anything crazy in it, like coriander or maple sugar or flavor. German beer is bread, liquefied. It tastes like bread with hops. Which is great! But it’s not the beer Americans are accustomed to. There’s not a lot of perceived experimentation, like Dogfish Head is known for. It’s not particularly strong, like a barleywine, and not particularly rich, like a Belgian beer.

Still, I think I’ll eventually develop a palate for it. I like the malty richness  of this dunkel (translates to “dark”), and the aftertaste is clean yet present. It’s like walking into a kitchen baking bread. I can get used to this.

And if not, Belgium is one country over.

 

The Seven Hour Gap

Maryland Jazzband of Cologne

Maryland Jazzband of Cologne, Preservation Hall, NOLA.

When Alissa accepted a new job in Germany, she immediately negotiated the start date to be after our planed vacation to New Orleans. We go to New Orleans every year, but this year was special; we just got married a few months prior, and we rented a house and invited all our friends! So we couldn’t just cancel the trip, and we wouldn’t have wanted to anyway.

“We get back on the 16th,” she said, “so any time after that.”

“No problem!” they replied, “Here’s a new contract. You can start on the 18th!”

Flights from New York City to Germany are frequent. But even so, we ended up pushing back our vacation return flight to the morning of the 16th, and scheduled a flight to Germany on the evening of the 16th. In between the two flights was a seven hour gap.

As it turned out, the rest of the story is uneventful. We arrived home on time, threw out the rest of our apartment crap that we couldn’t take with us, returned the keys, re-packed our bags, said goodbye to our apartment, and dragged our bags to the airport.

Empty apartment

Our bags are packed!

Ha ha ha! Just kidding. We dragged our bags as far as the end of the block, gave up, and hailed a cab. Those bags were damn heavy. What do we look like, superheros? Yeah? Well we’re lazy superheros. Life is much better when you spend your money on preventing misery.

Four hundred seventy two billion hours later, we arrived in Stuttgart. A cab took us to our temporary apartment, but only after Alissa understood and responded to the cab driver in German. What is the street address? “Sieben und sechzig, bitte” (“67 please”). Ahh. Yeah. We are locals. He probably didn’t even know we were Americans.

The landlady was waiting for us. I have no idea how her timing was so perfect, but she explained the apartment to us in reasonably good English, and carried our lightest bag up three floors. The rest of the bags were up to Alissa and myself. After some discussion, we just threw everything away. Ha ha! But seriously, the landlady did make a point to confirm that we were only staying for two weeks. We had enough bags to appear we were staying for several months.

We were exhausted, but we had arrived. Finally. The adventure begins!